US Open NYC Information
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
New York is electric -- from the neon billboards of Times Square to Manhattan's night-lit skyline to the rush of people cramming the streets, subways, office towers, theaters and restaurants. An international capital of finance, fashion, media and the arts, it's a place where worlds collide to create an utterly distinctive energy. Underneath the cosmopolitan sheen, however, New York remains a city of neighborhoods. From the Lower East Side to Spanish Harlem, from Bedford Stuyvesant to Chinatown, Old World customs still have their place.
New York has many, many restaurants per square mile, representing every ethnicity on the globe (and a few unusual fusions -- Cuban-Chinese, for example) and many of them are outstanding. Though this city has more than its share of pricey restaurants, opportunities for good eating at reasonable prices are abundant. For Indian food, as an example, go to any of the good, embarrassingly low-priced restaurants on 6th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues. Give in to your temptation and buy a hot dog with the works from any curbside vendor, or a soft pretzel slathered in mustard, or hot chestnuts in winter, or a falafel sandwich or pizza by the slice (to eat New York-style, fold the slice before eating). For breakfast, try one of the coffee shops or Greek diners that appear on most blocks (remembering that ordering coffee "regular" will get you coffee with milk).
At fine restaurants, it's often possible to consume the same divine cuisine at lunch as at dinnertime -- for much less money. At the hot spots you've heard or read about, it's advisable to make dinner reservations one or two months in advance, particularly for weekend nights. For the following listings, expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one with one drink, tip and tax: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$15-$25; $$$ = US$25-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50. BEST IN TOWNLe Cirque 2000 -- This legendary place has a long-standing reputation for excellence. Miraculous meals are served in close quarters. The wine list is extensive and reasonable. Unless you absolutely cannot take another bite, do not pass up the creme brulee! Monday-Sunday 11:45 am-2:15 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations imperative. Jacket and tie required lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 455 Madison Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets), phone 212-303-7788.
Chanterelle -- The contemporary French cuisine changes monthly, but the food, wine list and service are always first rate. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 5:45-11 pm. We recommend lunch as an alternative to dinner at this pricey spot. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 2 Harrison St. (at Hudson), phone 212-966-6960.
Daniel
-- By all accounts one of the best restaurants in New York. Specialties include scallops with porcini, lobster consomme with fennel and caviar, and veal shank with Swiss chard and cranberry beans. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:45-11:30 pm. Reservations imperative (call a full month in advance). Most major credit cards. $$$$. Lunch prix fixe: US$35 two-course, US$42 three-course, US$85 six-course tasting menu. Dinner prix fixe: US$68 three-course, US$90 six-course, US$120 eight-course tasting menu. 20 E. 76th St. (in the Hotel Surrey), phone 212-288-0033.
Peter Luger -- A real New York steak house replete with wood and brass and an elbow-worn oak bar. No menus are needed: Choose either the juicy, broiled porterhouse steak or the double lamb chops. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-10:45 pm, Sunday 1-9:45 pm. Reservations necessary. No credit cards. $$$$. Take the subway (J train) to the Marcy Avenue stop. 178 Broadway (next to the Williamsburg Bridge), Brooklyn, phone 718-387-7400.
HOT AND TRENDY
Nobu -- Tasty, creative Japanese food with a California twist. Robert DeNiro is one of the partners of this place, which serves a trendy downtown crowd of beautiful, wealthy people. The sushi is transcendental. Monday-Friday 11:45 am-2:15 pm, Monday-Sunday 5:45-10:15 pm. Reservations necessary (call 212-219-8095 one month in advance, 10 am-5 pm). Most major credit cards. $$$$. 105 Hudson St., phone 212-219-0500.
Indochine -- The food is French Vietnamese, the decor is tropical and the preoccupation is people watching, in order to see big time publishing folks, stylists and mannequins and such celebrities as Ellen Barkin, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell fill those cushy green booths. Daily 5:30-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. $$$. 430 Lafayette St. (between Astor Place and 4th Street, East Village), phone 212-505-5111.
Cub Room
-- Contemporary American fare in a hip SoHo restaurant. Try the grilled portobello mushroom salad and seared yellowfin tuna with Asian greens. Lunch Tuesday-Friday noon-3 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 6-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm, Sunday 5:30-11 pm, brunch Sunday noon-3 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$. 131 Sullivan St. (at Prince), phone 212-677-4100.
LOCAL FAVORITES
Gotham Bar and Grill -- Steak, seafood, lamb, venison, pasta and burgers prepared with great style. The restaurant, in a converted warehouse, is airy and spacious. The US$19.99 prix-fixe lunch is a steal. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday and Sunday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 12 E. 12th St., phone 212-620-4020.
Grimaldi's
-- In the endless debate over the best pizza in the city, this Brooklyn eatery is consistently a front-runner. The crust is so good you could eat it without toppings. Sells whole pies only. Wine sold by the glass, carafe or bottle. Monday-Friday (except closed Tuesday) 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 2 pm-midnight. No credit cards accepted, cash only. $$-$$$. 19 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn Heights (take the A or C train to High Street), phone 718-858-4300.
Michael's -- The cuisine is Californian at this upscale, but casual restaurant. Fresh fish dishes, such as poached Maine lobster, steelhead trout and soft-shell crabs rule the day, but there are also such meat entrees as porterhouse steak. The restaurant has a roomy feel, affording more privacy than you usually get in New York restaurants. Prints by David Hockney, Jasper Johns and John Cage, and art by Michael's wife adorn the walls. Dennis Hopper photographs hang in the bathrooms. In the back, a glass-encased garden room is open for lunch. Monday-Friday: breakfast 7:30-9:30 am, lunch noon-3:45, dinner 5-10:30 pm. Saturday: dinner 5:30-10:30 pm. Most major credit cards. $$$. 24 W. 55th St. (between 5th and 6th Avenues), phone 212-767-0555.
Casa Brasil -- Authentic Brazilian and Portuguese food on the East Side. Specialities are vatapa (codfish and shrimp with a peanut and coconut sauce) and tropeiro (black beans cooked with manioc flour, beef bits and scrambled eggs). For US$18.95, you can get a rodizio, which is an all-you-can-eat meal including 8-10 kinds of grilled meat, plantains, yucca and other side dishes, and a salad bar. Also Brazilian steaks and veal dishes, very reasonably priced. Sunday-Thursday noon-10:45 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-11:30 pm. Most major credit cards. $$. 316 E. 53rd St., phone 212-355-5360.
Bubby's
-- This Tribeca restaurant serves Continental and American food with a Mexican flair. It started off with modest and charming surroundings and doubled its space in four years. There's often a wait of 20-30 minutes, even in the winter. Brunch is popular partly because of the banana-walnut pancakes. Don't pass on the apple pie -- Bubby's bakes all its pies from scratch. Smoking is permitted in one section of the restaurant. Breakfast Monday-Friday 8-11 am, brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am-4:45 pm, lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-4 pm. Dinner Sunday 6-10 pm, Monday and Tuesday 6-11 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight. Limited menu midnight-3 am. Most major credit cards. $$. 120 Hudson St., phone 212-219-0666.
An American Place -- New American cuisine is presented in this large, airy restaurant, decorated with art-deco furniture. Specialties are lobster stew and duck. It's a favored hangout of the media at lunchtime. Monday-Friday 11:45 am-3 pm, Monday-Saturday 5:30-9:30 pm. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 2 Park Ave. (entrance is on 32nd between Park and Madison Avenues), phone 212-684-2122.
Union Square Cafe -- Dine on innovative American cuisine in a large, airy setting. Try the roast monkfish with spicy curry sauce or seared salmon with onion-pepper marmalade. Monday-Saturday noon-2:15 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 6-10:15 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11:15 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$-$$$$. 21 E. 16th St., phone 212-243-4020.
Tribeca Grill -- Loft like restaurant with an ornate mahogany bar. The limos aren't lined up like they used to be, but you might still spot a celebrity filmmaker from the Tribeca Film Center upstairs. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:45 pm, then midday menu 3-5 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10:45 pm; Friday and Saturday till 11:15 pm; Sunday 5:30-9:45 pm. Sunday brunch 11:30 am-2:45 pm. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 375 Greenwich St. (at Franklin), phone 212-941-3900.
The River Cafe
-- Getting to this place requires a taxi ride over the East River to Brooklyn, but the outstanding New American cuisine, romantic interior and spectacular views of Manhattan reward those who make the trip. Prix-fixe dinner US$65. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$$. Prix-fixe dinner US$75. 1 Water St. ( East River and Cadman Place West; closest subway stations are Clark Street and High Street, each about six blocks away), phone 718-522-5200.
The Water's Edge -- Right across the East River in Queens. Fine Continental and American food in a light, airy room: Floor-to-ceiling windows offer superb views of Lower Manhattan and Midtown. From the E. 34th Street pier, take the complimentary private water shuttle leaving every hour on the hour from 6 pm on. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm, Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$-$$$$. 44th Drive at the East River, Long Island City (four blocks from the 21st Street exit of the 23rd and Ely subway station, down 44th Drive), phone 718-482-0033.
FRENCH/ITALIAN/GREEK
Alison on Dominick Street -- Delicious French cuisine in a small, cozy SoHo setting makes this an ideal place for lovers. Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday to 9:15 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 38 Dominick St. (between Varick and Hudson), phone 212-727-1188.
Cafe des Artistes -- A romantic little bistro, the dining room is decorated with murals with nudes from the 1930s. The cuisine is Hungarian-Austrian. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:45 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-11:45 pm, Sunday closes at 10:45 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$-$$$$. 1 W. 67th St., phone 212-877-3500.
Il Mulino -- Complimentary appetizers are served before you order. The staff aims to please, and the food would convince anyone's Italian grandmother to return for more. The osso buco is tender and delicious. Do not pass up dessert. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and Monday-Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 86 W. 3rd St., phone 212-673-3783.
Le Madri
-- Classic Italian cuisine with impeccable consistency, and an atmosphere straight out of Tuscany. Try the osso buco with portobello mushrooms or paper-thin pizza from a wood-burning oven. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 5:30-11 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5:30-11 pm, Sunday brunch 11:30 am-3:30 pm and dinner 5:30-11 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 168 W. 18th St., phone 212-727-8022.
Montrachet -- Top-notch French cuisine in a low-key, pleasant atmosphere. Spectacular wine list. Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday noon-2:15 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-10:45 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 239 W. Broadway, phone 212-219-2777.
Novita -- Inventive Italian menu, with dishes such as black truffle and grilled shrimp salad or roasted red snapper with spicy shrimp stuffing. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm, Monday-Thursday 6-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations required. Most major credit cards. $$$. 102 E. 22nd St., phone 212-677-2222.
Molyvos
-- A restaurant even for diners skeptical of Greek food -- this place is superb. Among its specialties are braised, marinated lamb and rabbit stew. For dessert, consider the Greek cheesecake or honey-drizzled fritters. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3 pm (cafe open later); dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-11:30 pm, Friday till midnight, Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 5-11 pm. Lunch special US$19.99 and Prix Theater, 5:30-6:45 pm, US$32.50. Most major credit cards. $$$. 871 7th Ave. (at 55th Street), phone 212-582-7500.
ASIAN AND ASIAN-INFLUENCED
Vong -- This beautifully decorated French/Thai restaurant offers highly creative cuisine to a chic clientele. Rabbit curry and lychee/papaya soup are among the offerings. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 6-11 pm, Friday 5:30-11 pm, Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm, Sunday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$$. 200 E. 54th St., phone 212-486-9592.
Shun Lee Palace -- The large menu covers several regional cuisines, and the restaurant is spacious and luxurious. Begin with the fried dumplings and be sure to try the smoked duck. (Don't bother with the desserts.) Daily noon-11:30 pm. Reservations necessary. Most major credit cards. $$$. 155 E. 55th St., phone 212-371-8844.
Hatsuhana -- Order the prix-fixe dinner to sample a little of everything. A la carte specialties include tempura and salmon teriyaki. Monday-Friday 11:45 am-2:45 pm and 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 5-10 pm. Reservations required. $$$ a la carte, US$25 prix-fixe dinner. 17 E. 48th St., phone 212-355-3345, also at 237 Park Ave., phone 212-661-3400.
Mitali
-- One of the best Indian restaurants in all of New York. Recommended: the shrimp curry or the tandoori chicken. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations advised. Most major credit cards. $$. 334 E. 6th St., phone 212-533-2508.
Match -- This hot spot serves up unusual dishes with an Asian twist. The very trendy diners at this place tend to like the spicy duck pizza with shiitake mushrooms or wok-seared bluefin tuna with soba noodle salad. Monday-Wednesday 11:30 am-2 am, Thursday till 3 am, Friday-Sunday till 4 am. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. $$$. 160 Mercer St., phone 212-343-0020. (Also an uptown Match at 33 E. 60th St., phone 212-906-9177.)
LATE NIGHT/BREAKFAST
Empire Diner -- It's common to see stretch limousines pulling up in the wee hours, bringing after-club diners to this hip art-deco diner. You can order anything from turkey sandwiches and omelets to tofu fajitas. Open 24 hours daily. No reservations. Most major credit cards. $$. 210 10th Ave. (between 22nd and 23rd Streets), phone 212-243-2736.
Junior's -- Just across the Manhattan Bridge is this landmark diner. The cheesecake's the draw. If you can, choose between plain, strawberry, chocolate-swirl, cherry-crumb, pumpkin, fat-free and many others. The place is usually packed, but reservations aren't necessary. Breakfast served anytime. Sunday-Wednesday 6:30 am-12:15 am, Thursday till 12:45 am, Friday and Saturday till 1:45 am. Most major credit cards. $$. Take the D, Q, N or R to DeKalb Avenue or the 2, 3, 4 or 5 to Nevins Street and walk two blocks towards the bridge. 386 Flatbush Ave., downtown Brooklyn, phone 718-852-5257.
ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES
Lola
-- The perfect place to enjoy a good meal, a few drinks, some live music and maybe dance a little. Relaxed, upscale restaurant that books bands Tuesday-Saturday. Dining in back where just the right amount of light and music is provided, whether it's pumped in through the speakers or filtered in from the bar. Grand piano and original art add to the inviting atmosphere. The signature dish is fried chicken, but the seafood dishes and desserts are terrific, too. On-site tarot readings Tuesday-Thursday and Saturday. Gospel brunch Sunday with seatings at 9:30, 11:30 am and 1:45 pm (US$27.95). Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3 pm, dinner daily 6 pm-midnight. Reservations are recommended because Lola fills up quickly, especially on nights when there's live music. Tuesday is jazz, Wednesday blues, Thursday-Saturday R&B and funk. Don't be surprised if the diners start dancing. Most major credit cards (but not Discover). $$$$. 30 W. 22nd St., phone 212-675-6700. For a hipper environment for lunch (Monday-Friday noon-3 pm), try Lola Bowla two doors to the west (phone 212-675-5544). The menu is Asia-Pacific influenced. $$$.
The Jekyll & Hyde Club -- Dine in a three-story "haunted house" complete with lightning, thunder and smoke. The walls are decorated with skulls, large beetles and scary masks. Statues of Zeus and the Sphinx speak, and gargoyles come to life. If you don't lose your appetite, try the pumpkin tortellini or Oriental chicken salad, Cajun fries or buffalo wings. Monday and Tuesday 11:30 am-midnight, Wednesday 11 am-midnight, Thursday 11:30 am-midnight, Friday 11:30 am-1 pm, Saturday 10:30-1 am, Sunday 11:30-midnight. Reservations for parties of eight or more. Most major credit cards. $$-$$$. 1409 6th Ave. (at 57th Street), phone 212-541-9505.
SIGHTSEEING
Do see the Statue of Liberty, Times Square, Grand Central Station, Central Park and -- during the holiday season -- festive Rockefeller Center and spectacular window dressings at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf's and Macy's. New York is very much a walking city, so hit the pavement and stay alert -- half the fun is uncovering all the sights between the sights.
LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES
Statue of Liberty National Monument . Even with her likeness sold all around town on ashtrays and T-shirts, the real thing remains impressive and moving. The American Museum of Immigration is housed in the base of the statue. The Circle Line Statue of Liberty Ferry departs from South Ferry at Battery Park (on the Lower West Side of Manhattan) every 30 minutes. From May-Labor Day access to the stairs leading to the crown is restricted. Only passengers from the first two ferries of the day, one leaving from Battery Park in Manhattan and the other from Liberty State Park in Jersey City, are allowed into the stairwell (which can reach temperatures of 100 F/38 C in the summer). Otherwise, you can still enjoy the view from the top of the statue's pedestal. Fall, winter, spring hours: daily 9:30 am-3:15 pm. Summer hours daily 8:30 am-7 pm. Get to one of the ferry terminals at 7:30 am if you want to get on the first ferry. If you're taking the 354 stairs to the crown, prepare to climb them very slowly. US$7 adults, US$6 seniors, US$3 children ages 3-17. Liberty Island. Ferry information, phone 212-269-5755.
Times Square . The site of the country's biggest New Year's Eve party, this square (really more of a triangle) was once famous for its huge billboards, porn palaces and Broadway theaters. Today it's been cleaned up and boasts bright lights, a Disney store, a Virgin megastore for music, and (still) some Broadway theaters, including the meticulously restored New Amsterdam. The news is broadcast round the clock on a huge screen over the square. Tours of the New Amsterdam are given Monday 11 am-5 pm on the hour. US$10 adults, US$5 children under age 12. Phone 212-282-2907. Broadway to 7th Avenue, between 42nd and 47th Streets.
Grand Central Terminal
. The largest train station and main concourse in the world. With its recent cleanup, passing through the station, even (or especially) at rush hour, has become a sublime experience. The Renaissance-style architecture creates a strangely peaceful backdrop for the frenetic dance of thousands of commuters. The creamy-rose, Tennesee-marble floors are gleaming, as are the brass chandeliers with hundreds of bulbs. The Sky Ceiling is a heart-stopper, with an aquamarine image of the night sky with teeny lights for stars and major constellations outlined in gold. Stores and restaurants are moving in at a rapid clip. Go to the station even if you're going nowhere. 42nd Street and Lexington Avenue.
Empire State Building . From King Kong to Sleepless in Seattle, Hollywood has always paid homage to this distinctive landmark. Incredible views of the city day and night from the various observatories. Daily 9:30 am-midnight (last elevator to the top is at 11:30 pm). US$6 adults, US$3 seniors and children over age 5. A newer attraction is the New York Skyride, a flight simulator that makes you feel as if you're soaring over the city. US$11 adults, US$9.50 seniors and children over age 12, US$3 children ages 5-12, free for children under age 5. Daily 10 am-10 pm. The ride lasts 30 minutes. Pregnant women and children age 4 and under not allowed. Combination tickets for Skyride and the Empire State Building: US$14 adults, US$9 seniors and children. 34th Street and 5th Avenue, phone 212-736-3100. For Skyride information, call 212-279-9777.
Chrysler Building . This 1930s art-deco stunner was New York City's first skyscraper. Unfortunately, you can't ride to the top, but you can at least appreciate its night-lit spire, one of the most stirring sights on the city's skyline. The beautiful lobby is also worth checking out. 405 Lexington Ave. (at 42nd), phone 212-682-3070.
Ellis Island National Monument
. This site allows visitors to retrace the steps of their ancestors and share the excitement and heartache of the immigrant experience. Circle Line Statue of Liberty Ferry departs from Battery Park (on the Lower West Side of Manhattan) every 30 minutes, stops at the Statue of Liberty, then heads on to Ellis Island. Open daily 9:30 am-3:30 pm; tickets can be purchased from 8:30 am on. US$7 adults, US$6 seniors, US$3 children ages 3-17. Ellis Island recorded information: 212-363-3200; ferry information, 212-269-5755. (Take IRT subways No. 4 or 5 to Bowling Green or Nos. 1 or 9 to South Ferry; BMT trains N and R stop across the street from Battery Park.)
New York Public Library . More than just one of the world's great research libraries, the New York Public Library lures residents and visitors alike with its beautiful beaux-arts facade, grand entrance (guarded by two marble lions), changing exhibits and beautiful Main Reading Room. Monday and Thursday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday and Wednesday 11 am-7:30 pm. 5th Avenue and 42nd Street, phone 212-930-0800.
Carnegie Hall . A landmark concert hall with continuous performances of classical, chamber music, opera, pop and jazz. Tours Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 11:30 am, 2 pm and 3 pm. US$6 adults, US$5 seniors and students. 154 W. 57th St. (at 7th Avenue), phone 212-247-7800.
City Hall
. Built between 1803 and 1812 in the Federal style with French influences, it houses several art and history exhibits. Tours Monday-Friday 10 am, 11 am and 2 pm (not on weekends). Tours given with two weeks' advance notice; minimum 10 people, maximum 30. Broadway at Murray Street (downtown), phone 212-788-6865.
Rockefeller Center . Perhaps most famous for its Christmas tree-lighting ceremony and ice-skating rink, Rockefeller Center is also home to NBC Studios. Studio tours given every day but holidays every 15-30 minutes 9:30 am-4:30 pm. US$10. You can book a tour months in advance. No children under 6 years old. For NBC Studio tours information, call 212-664-7174. Also in Rockefeller Center: an underground shopping concourse, a patio for outdoor dining, and an ice-skating rink (closes for the season mid May). Open daily at irregular times; call 212-332-7654 for schedule. Around US$8 for adults to skate, around US$6 for seniors and children under age 12. 5th Avenue between 47th and 52nd Streets.
New York Stock Exchange . A visitor's gallery in this landmark of capitalism overlooks the trading floor. Recordings for self-guided tours are in five different languages. Walking down Wall Street, itself, is an awe-inspiring experience, as you're closed in by towering skyscrapers. Stock exchange hours: Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm, although trading stops at 4 pm. Get tickets, free, starting at 8:45 am. 20 Broad St., phone 212-656-5165.
Chinatown
. It's a labyrinth of narrow streets where crammed storefronts dispense everything from herbal remedies to cloud ears to cleavers and back-scratchers. When the frenetic activity wears you out, stop in at a restaurant that serves dim sum. Located in Lower Manhattan, Chinatown extends from Canal to Pell Street and from the Avenue of the Americas ( 6th Avenue) as far east as the Bowery. Major streets are Canal, Pell and Mott. Parking is impossible. Take the N, R or No. 6 train to Canal Street, or A, C, or E train to Canal (at 6th Avenue).
Greenwich Village . This longtime artists' community, replete with coffeehouses and off-Broadway theaters, is also distinguished by its large and politically active gay community (in the West Village) and bars that serve either aging beat poets or young hipsters. Wonderful, winding cobblestone streets, old town houses and the smaller scale of streets and apartment buildings make the Village a great place to dine, shop or walk. On weekends many out-of-towners go there to party, so the neighborhood loses some of its charm. Houston Street north to 14th Street, Broadway west to the Hudson River.
Little Italy has dwindled significantly over the years as neighboring Chinatown has expanded, but it remains the best place in Manhattan to find authentic Italian breads, meats, pasta, cheeses and desserts. During warmer months you can eat alfresco at the restaurants. In lower Manhattan, just north of Chinatown, and extending from Mott to Mulberry on Hester Street and from Hester to Grand on Mulberry Street.
South Street Seaport
. This historic seaport district offers cobblestone streets, waterfront piers, shops, restaurants and a great view of Brooklyn and New York Harbor. It's considered a tourist trap by many New Yorkers who shun it, though some good concerts are held there. The bars and restaurants attract the Wall Street crowd; upscale clothing shops attract the J. Crew crowd. Historic ships and harbor boat tours. Great vantage point for the July 4th fireworks. East River at the foot of Fulton Street, phone 212-732-7678.
MUSEUMS
Note : Most New York museums are closed Mondays and holidays. The publication Museums: New York lists current exhibitions and is available for free at most museums.
Metropolitan Museum of Art
. The 19th-Century European Paintings and Sculpture Galleries house treasures by Monet, Renoir, Manet, Gauguin, van Gogh and many, many others. The wonderful American wing is graced with paintings by Whistler, Eakins and John Singer Sargent. The entire museum covers 5,000 years of culture from all over the world, so wear comfortable shoes and give yourself a few hours at a time to browse. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday 9:30 am-5:15 pm, Friday and Saturday 9:30 am-8:45 pm. Suggested donation: US$8 adults, US$4 students, seniors and children. 5th Avenue at 82nd Street, phone 212-570-3711 or 212-879-5500.
The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA ). Famous paintings, sculpture, drawings, prints, architecture, photography, film and industrial design from the 1880s to the present. Artists include Chagall, Picasso, Klee, Magritte, Stieglitz, Andrew Wyeth, Jackson Pollock and Claes Oldenburg. Saturday-Tuesday and Thursday 10:30 am-5:45 pm and Friday 10:30-8:15 pm. Closed Wednesday, Thanksgiving and Christmas. There's a Friday evening jazz series. US$9.50 adults, US$6.50 for seniors age 65 and older and full-time students. Children under age 16 and accompanied by an adult are free. Pay-what-you-wish Friday 4:30-8:15 pm. 11 W. 53rd St., phone 212-708-9400 or 212-708-9480.
Just across the street from MOMA is the American Craft Museum. Contemporary crafts -- from tapestries to teapots -- in a variety of media -- from fiber and wood to clay and metal. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday till 8 pm. US$5 adults, US$2.50 seniors and students, free for children under age 12 with adult. Pay-what-you-wish Thursday 6-8 pm. 40 W. 53rd St., phone 212-956-6047.
Guggenheim Museum
. The only New York City structure designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the building itself is a work of art. Take an elevator to the top; spiraling gallery-corridors within a huge dome lead you down past impressionist, postimpressionist, modern and avant-garde paintings and sculptures. More on a ground-floor wing. Holdings include Chagall's Green Violinist, Picasso's Woman Ironing and Kandinsky's Composition 8. Sunday-Wednesday 10 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-8 pm. US$12 adults; US$7 seniors, students and children age 12 or older; children age 12 or younger, free. 1071 5th Ave. (at 89th Street), phone 212-423-3500. Pay-what-you-wish policy in effect Friday 6-8 pm. Tickets admit holder to Guggenheim SoHo as well. The Guggenheim Museum SoHo reopens in summer 1999. It has cutting-edge exhibits, often with interactive videos and multimedia. Call for hours and admission prices. 575 Broadway (at Prince Street), phone 212-423-3500.
Frick Collection . The former mansion of Henry Frick faces Central Park and houses his stunning collection of 14th- to 19th-century European paintings, objets d'art and furniture. The collection includes Hans Holbein's Sir Thomas More and Edward Degas' The Rehearsal. The courtyard, with its fountain, ivy, and stone benches, is a fine place to rest. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. Children under age 10 not admitted; ages 10-16 years admitted only with adult. US$7 adults, US$5 seniors and students. 1 E. 70th St., phone 212-288-0700.
Whitney Museum of American Art . Constantly changing exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, prints, drawings, photographs, film and video; past exhibits have featured Jasper Johns, Georgia O'Keeffe and Andy Warhol. If you're in town during the Whitney Biennial by all means go! Wednesday 11 am-6 pm, Thursday 1-8 pm, Friday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm. US$9 adults, US$7 seniors and students, free for children under age 12, free for all Thursday 6-8 pm. Wednesday, Friday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm, Thursday 1-8 pm. 945 Madison Ave. (at 75th Street), phone 212-570-3676.
Cooper-Hewitt, National Museum of Design
. After extensive renovations, this Smithsonian institution has expanded gallery space and a spruced up glass-and-steel conservatory. Housed in the beautiful Andrew Carnegie Mansion, its collection of decorative textiles, porcelain and wallpapers traces the development of design through the centuries. Tuesday 10 am-9 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Suggested donation: US$3 adults, seniors and students over 12 years of age. Free Tuesday 5-9 pm. 2 E. 91st St., phone 212-860-6868.
International Center of Photography . New York City's only museum devoted exclusively to photography. Exhibits include works by such socially conscious photographers as Sebastiao Salgado and Mary Ellen Mark. Tuesday-Thursday 10 am-5 pm, Friday 10 am-8 pm and Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. US$6 adults, US$4 seniors and students, US$1 children under age 12. 1130 5th Ave. (at 94th), phone 212-860-1777. Midtown branch: 1133 6th Ave. (at 43rd), phone 212-768-4680. Ticket to either branch is valid for entry to the other branch for one week.
Museum of the City of New York
. A must for history buffs. Covers New York from the Dutch settlers to the present day; historical New York comes to life through period furniture, miniatures and antique toys. Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Suggested donation: US$5 adults, US$4 for children, seniors and students. US$10 family ticket. 5th Avenue at 103rd Street, phone 212-534-1672.
New Museum of Contemporary Art . Shows primarily living, contemporary artists, focusing on work that is political or experimental in nature. One-person retrospectives of underrecognized artists and select group shows. Thursday-Saturday noon-8. US$5 adults, US$3 artists, students and seniors; free for children under age 18 accompanied by an adult; free to all Thursday 6-8 pm. 583 Broadway near Houston Street ( SoHo), phone 212-219-1355.
Brooklyn Museum of Art
. This treasure somehow remains underapreciated even though it's the second largest museum in New York. Just to wander through this grand beaux-arts building is worth the trip to Brooklyn. It has exceptionally strong Egyptian, African and Native American collections, as well as significant works by such masters as John Singer Sargent and Winslow Homer. Also a Rodin sculpture court and paintings by Monet, Degas and other 19th-century French artists. Call for schedule of temporary exhibits and evening performances. Wednesday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday. First Saturday of the month open till 11 pm, with free performances in the evening. Suggested donation US$4 adults, US$2 students, US$1.50 seniors. 200 Eastern Parkway at Washington Ave., Brooklyn (take the 2 or 3 train to Eastern Parkway/Brooklyn Museum), phone 718-638-5000.
P.S. 1 Contemporary Art Center . This young gun -- it reopened in 1997 after a three-year renovation -- recently partnered with the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA). Great things are in store for this immense school building turned artspace. At its inception, this museum turned its hallways and classrooms into installation challenges for a host of contemporary artists. Some of these have been extremely successful (especially "Meeting" by James Turrell, visible only in the late afternoon and during good weather), others have been merely puzzling, and some are so subtle you're not sure whether you're looking at an idiosyncrasy of the building or a work of art. Some of the galleries are more traditional, with semi permanent and temporary exhibits. Now that it's hitched with MOMA, the future of this museum is open to speculation. Wednesday-Sunday noon-6 pm. Suggested donation US$4. Easily accessible from Manhattan -- it's a straight shot on the E or F train to 23rd Street/ Ely Avenue or the 7 to 45 Road/Court House Square, and a short walk from the stations. 22-25 Jackson Ave. (at 46th Ave.), Long Island City, Queens, phone 718-784-2084.
SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY MUSEUMS
American Museum of Natural History
. The largest collection of dinosaurs, fossil mammals and whole skeletons in the world. Informative exhibits of early Asian, Mexican and pre colonial North American life. The glassed-in dioramas of indigenous people can be disconcerting, and some of the exhibits seem musty and dated, but the renovation of the dinosaur exhibits on the fourth floor is terrific. It restored the architectural grandeur of the hall as well as adding interactive computers (and natural light). Hayden Planetarium is closed until early 2000. For temporary exhibitions, reservations (for timed entries) are encouraged and must be made 24 hours in advance. US$13 adults, US$9 students and seniors, US$7 children. Call 212-769-5200. Combination tickets for museum, IMAX theater and temporary exhibits are also available. Sunday-Thursday 10 am-5:45 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-8:45 pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Suggested donation for permanent exhibits: US$8 adults, US$6 seniors and students with ID, US$4.50 children. Central Park West at 79th Street, phone 212-769-5100.
New York Hall of Science . One of the top science museums in the U.S. with more than 185 exhibits. The Easy-View Microscope was first introduced and tested at the New York Hall of Science. It gives individuals an effortless way to view microbes and is now used in museums and science centers worldwide. The Great Hall is the largest dalle de verre (French for slab of glass) installation in the world. There's a large, interactive playground for children. 1 July-31 August: Monday 9:30 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm. 1 September-30 June: Monday-Wednesday 9:30 am-2 pm, Thursday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm, free admission Thursday and Friday 2-5 pm. US$6 age 16 and over; US$4 children ages 4-15 and seniors age 62 and over. Science playground US$2 per person. 4701 11th St. (at 46th Avenue), Flushing Meadow, Queens, phone 718-699-0005. Take the 7 Train to 111th Street.
Children's Museum of Manhattan . The exhibits are designed to make learning fun and interactive: In the SoundFun area, children walk through a simulated ear; in the Time Warner Media Center, children can act as camera operators and learn about animation. Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. US$5 for everyone more than a year old, US$2.50 for seniors. 212 W. 83rd St., Tisch Building, phone 212-721-1234.
PARKS, GARDENS AND ZOOS
Central Park . In 1856 New York officials set aside an amazing 843 acres/341 hectares of valuable city land between 5th and 8th Avenues and 59th and 110th Streets for a park. To this day, flowing meadows, bridges, lakes, ponds and playing fields produce a fragile serenity in the heart of this metropolis. Visitors of all ages enjoy sculptures both serious and whimsical, the skating rink, the boat pond and the zoo. John Lennon fans may pay their respects at Strawberry Fields, the area of the park dedicated to his memory, on the west side near 72nd Street. During the summer, residents flock to the band shells for afternoon and evening concerts. A motorized trolley tour will take you through the park to different points of interest. Departures from Grand Army Plaza, 60th Street and 5th Avenue. Call for an updated schedule and rates: 212-397-3807. For a horse-drawn-carriage ride through the park, find an empty buggy at Tavern on the Green or at 59th Street and 5th Avenue. Ride costs US$34 for 20 minutes, US$10 for every 10 minutes thereafter. Central Park Information: 212-246-0520.
Note : Never venture into Central Park after dark.
Central Park Wildlife Center
. This is a delightful, lovely, small zoo -- the perfect size for a leisurely visit: There's plenty to see, but you don't have to wear yourself out to get through it all. The Tisch Children's Zoo is designed especially for children age 6 and under. Admission to the Wildlife Center includes admission to Tisch. Summer hours: Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10:30 am-5:30 pm. Winter hours: 10 am-4:30 pm. US$3.50 adults, US$1.25 seniors age 65 and older, US$0.50 children ages 3-12. Children under age 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Last tickets sold a half hour before closing. For further information, call 212-861-6030.
New York Botanical Garden . A 250-acre horticultural preserve, research laboratory, and tree and plant museum. Several newer areas include Old World and New World desert and aquatic plants, a rain forest and a Children's Adventure Garden, adorned with topiaries and mazes. The Enid Haupt Conservatory, renovated to critical acclaim, is a lovely cold-weather retreat. Gardens open April-October, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm; November-March, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4 pm (open Monday when it's a legal holiday). US$3 adults, US$2 seniors and students, US$1 children ages 2-12. Garden Passport with admission to many specialty gardens and discounts in shop is US$6.50 adults, US$4 seniors and students, and US$2.50 children ages 2-12. To get there, take the D train or the No. 4 to Bedford Park Boulevard; walk eight blocks east. Or, take Metro North (from Grand Central) to the Botanical Garden Station. Southern Boulevard at 200th Street, Bronx, phone 718-817-8500.
The Bronx Zoo
. The largest urban zoo in the United States. With more than 4,000 animals in varied natural habitats, the zoo is awesome. Come face to face with the critters of the rain forest -- with no bars or glass to separate you -- and get a peek at real nightlife in a pitch-dark building exclusively populated by nocturnal animals. A Congo Gorilla Forest re-creates an African rain forest with more than 300 animals, including 30 gorillas in a context of bamboo forests, meadows and wading pools. Conveniently located near the New York Botanical Garden. November-March open daily 10 am-4:30 pm; April-October open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-5:30 pm. US$4 adults (Wednesday free), US$2 seniors and children (in winter, rates are one half). Children under age 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Fordham Road and Bronx River Parkway, phone 718-367-1010 or 718-220-5100. (To get there, take the No. 2 train to Pelham Park Station and walk two blocks west to Boston Road; follow Boston Road to the zoo entrance. From the nearby Botanical Gardens, take Bus 9 to Boston Road and E. 181st Street.)
Brooklyn Botanic Gardens . A jewel, frequently overlooked: Something is always in bloom! Lovely displays of holly, winter jasmine, pussy willows and roses. Tours and workshops, annual holiday exhibit and concert. Open Tuesday-Friday 8 am-4:30 pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-4:30 pm. Conservatory open 10 am-4 pm, Terrace Cafe open 10 am-3 pm. (But check: Hours change seasonally.) US$3 adults, US$1.50 seniors and students, US$0.50 for children ages 6-16. Free for all Monday-Friday in the winter and Tuesday in the summer. 100 Washington Ave., Brooklyn (take No. 2 or 3 train to Eastern Parkway). Phone 718-622-4433.
SELF-GUIDED WALKING TOURS
For information on walking tours, pick up a free copy of The Big Apple Visitor's Guide. It's an excellent resource, and you may find it indispensable during your stay. Available at the New York Convention and Visitor's Bureau, 810 7th Ave., 3rd Floor (between 52nd and 53rd Streets), New York, NY 10019, phone 212-484-1200.
Pick up a free Walking Tour of Rockefeller Center pamphlet at the information desk in the lobby of the GE Building, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, phone 212-698-2950.
LOCAL TOURS
Circle Line Sightseeing Cruises . Narrated cruises around Manhattan with sightings of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, the United Nations. Tours take place year round, less frequently in the winter. (Bundle up for winter cruises!) Departure days and times vary depending on the month. The cruises departing from Pier 83, 42nd Street on the Hudson River, last 90 minutes or three hours. Cruises departing South Street Seaport last one hour and only go around the tip of Manhattan. No reservations necessary. Arrive 30 minutes before departure. Call 212-563-3200 for more information.
Citywalks: Walking Tours of New York offers private Saturday and Sunday tours of Greenwich Village, downtown and the Lower East Side, for individuals or groups. Closed January-February. Contact John H. Wilson (owner), 410 W. 20th St., 10011, phone 212-989-2456.
Guides Association of New York City . A nonprofit association that represents 200 NYC licensed guides. Many are multilingual -- more than 25 foreign languages are spoken. Guides available to narrate motor coach tours, to meet and greet visitors at the airport. Phone 212-969-0666.
Joyce Gold Tours . Eclectic walking tours of the Financial District, Greenwich Village, Ellis Island, Harlem and other historical locations. Tours March-December, weekends only, US$12 a person (tours last two to four hours). Private tours can be arranged. 141 W. 17th St., phone 212-242-5762, fax 212-242-6374.
Harlem Spirituals offers a variety of tours, some multilingual, including a Soul Food and Jazz tour of historic Harlem, a Harlem and Gospel tour, and a Saturday tour of Upper Manhattan that includes Harlem, the Cloisters and parts of The Bronx (seasonal, beginning in March). Some evening tours include dinner and music. Prices vary. 1697 Broadway, Suite 203, phone 212-757-0425.
Big Apple Greeter . Not a tour guide, exactly, but a volunteer "friend" to greet you and give you an insider's perspective on New York. Call five days in advance of your visit and discuss what you would like to see. One greeter per two or three people or a family. They will match languages. Free. Phone 212-669-8159, fax 212-669-3685.
NY Apple Tours . See New York from a double-decker bus. The route includes Rockefeller Center, Times Square, the Empire State Building, South Street Seaport and more. Full city tour, US$35 adults; Manhattan without Brooklyn, US$31 adults; downtown only, US$21. Children age 12 and under US$22, US$18 and US$12, respectively. Hop on and off at 48 different locations. Tours start at 9 am from the Plaza Hotel, Rockefeller Center or in front of JoJo's (Broadway and 46th Street). Buy tickets on the bus or at various hotels. Phone 800-876-9868.
The Municipal Art Society . Architectural, historical, walking and bus tours. Tours include Rockefeller Center, Immigrant New York, Times Square Theaters, Irish New York, the Subway System, Skyscraper Evolution and more. Cost ranges US$10-$15. For reservations (needed Saturdays only), call 212-935-3969 (Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm).
Spirit Cruises . Sail away on a three-hour tour of the New York Harbor on either the Spirit of New York or the Spirit of New Jersey. A dinner and dancing cruise is an option. Prices run US$35.50-$72. Cruises every day. Reservations necessary. Phone 212-727-2789.
Big Onion . Twenty walking tours of historic and ethnic New York, including Governors Island and the Lower East Side. US$9 adults, US$7 seniors and students. Tours weekends and holidays year round. They last 2-2 urs. No reservations. Phone 212-439-1090.
World Yacht
. Three-hour cruise, with four-course, sit-down dinner and a live band for dancing. Sails daily April-December. Weekend service only January-March. Boards 6:00 pm, sails 7-10 pm. Sunday-Thursday US$67 per person, Friday US$75 per person, Saturday US$79 per person. Also, a lunch cruise 15 April-17 October, Wednesday-Saturday, and a Sunday Brunch cruise April-December. Reservations necessary. Cruises depart from Pier 81 at W. 41st Street and 12th Avenue. Phone 212-630-8100 or 800-498-4270.
ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES
St. Patrick's Cathedral . The seat of New York's archdiocese, St. Patrick's Cathedral is an enormous and ornate Gothic-style cathedral that has the souls of even the most exhausted travelers rejoicing after a visit. Open for visitors every day 7 am-8:30 pm. 5th Avenue at 50th Street, phone 212-753-2261.
The United Nations . The largest international governmental organization in the world. Free tickets to the General Assembly and various councils are sometimes available. Guided tours every 30 minutes, daily 9:15 am-4:45 pm (January and February, tours Monday-Friday only). US$7.50 adults, US$5.50 seniors, US$4.50 high school and college students, US$3.50 children, children under age 5 not admitted. Reservations needed for groups of more than 12. 1st Avenue at 46th Street, phone 212-963-7713.
Sony IMAX Theater . An eight-stories-high screen plus 3-D. Feature films change. Eight shows daily. US$9.50 adults, US$7.50 seniors over 62, US$6 children under age 12. Broadway and 68th Street, phone 212-336-5020.
Sony Wonder Technology Lab . An interactive science/technology museum that seems more like an amusement park. You can do everything from producing a TV show to laying down a track in a recording studio, or you can see the human body in a medical imaging lab. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm (Thursday to 8 pm), Sunday noon-6 pm. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Free. 550 Madison Ave. ( 56th Street), phone 212-833-8100.
SHOPPING
From elegant 5th Avenue department stores to small specialty shops, charming boutiques and bargain basements, New York is truly a shopper's heaven. The city offers whole districts of stores devoted to a particular specialty, such as antiques or jewelry; one section in Midtown sells only buttons and sewing notions, another in the Chelsea neighborhood concentrates on plants. Macy's incorporates everything: It's a New York landmark on 34th Street.
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS
5th Avenue from Central Park South ( 59th Street) to 42nd Street is a dazzling lineup of the world's most famous stores, including Henri Bendel, Harry Winston, Tiffany, F.A.O. Schwarz and Bergdorf Goodman. Also in the area (at 57th Street) is Trump Tower, noted for its gold front and cascading waterfall.
Upper East Side . Between 57th and 96th Streets and Madison and Lexington Avenues. Along the avenues you'll find chic clothing boutiques; along the small side streets you'll see quaint brownstones, antique shops and art galleries.
SoHo and Tribeca . These two areas south of Houston Street (pronounced HOW-ston) and north of Chambers Street downtown are neighborhoods both artsy and upscale. ( SoHo is short for South of Houston; TriBeCa -- pronounced try-BECK-uh -- is short for Triangle Below Canal Street.) They're jammed with art galleries, up-and-coming clothing designers and innovative jewelry creators. Bakeries, bistros and unusual food shops are on every corner.
Greenwich Village and the East Village. Below Washington Square is a maze of small streets with coffee shops once frequented by Beat poets, as well as nightclubs, shoe stores, Indian import shops, CD stores and punk clothing boutiques.
NoLIta (North of Little Italy). The enclave of Elizabeth, Mulberry and Mott Streets, between Spring and Houston, has many boutiques, art galleries and a couple dozen clothing stores.
South Street Seaport
. On the cobbled extension area of Fulton Street you'll recognize branches of such well-known retailers as J. Crew, Ann Taylor, the Gap and Banana Republic -- an easy place to shop while soaking in the historic atmosphere. Very touristy, though.
ANTIQUES
Florian Papp . A high-end antique shop on the Upper East Side, specializing in fine English and European furniture. For the serious collector. Monday-Friday 9 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm (closed Saturday in summer). 962 Madison Ave., phone 212-288-6770.
Laura Fisher/Antique Quilts & Americana . Famous for its beautiful collection of quilts, antique home furnishings, textiles, vintage accessories and folk art. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-6 pm, or by appointment. Gallery 84, Manhattan Art & Antique Center, 1050 2nd Ave. (between 55th and 56th Streets), phone 212-838-2596.
Kentshire Galleries is an East Village source for antique English furniture, with offerings from the period of William and Mary to William IV. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-3 pm. 37 E. 12th St., phone 212-673-6644.
Note : Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn is lined with antique shops from 3rd Avenue to Smith Street. Take any train to the Atlantic Avenue station.
ART GALLERIES
The prominent galleries in Manhattan are located in three areas: 57th Street west of 5th Avenue, Madison Avenue north of 63rd Street, and SoHo. The West 20s in Chelsea (between 10th Avenue and the Hudson River) is a hot spot for younger and less established artists who have abandoned SoHo for larger and/or cheaper digs. The Dia Center for the Arts (548 W. 22nd St., phone 323-989-5566, Thursday-Sunday noon-6 pm), a large, nonprofit gallery, anchors the Chelsea art scene. Most galleries are open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm and sometimes by special appointment. Pick up a copy of the monthly Art Now Gallery Guide, available for free at most galleries. It will lead you to the rest, with area maps and exhibition schedules. Chelsea Art, a bimonthly pamphlet, also covers Chelsea. The Sunday New York Times, Time Out New York and the Village Voice are all invaluable guides to gallery and museum exhibitions.
BEST DEPARTMENT STORES
All of New York City's finest stores, including Bergdorf's, Saks, Bloomingdale's and Macy's, offer personal shopping services.
Bergdorf Goodman carries an expensive array of designer clothing, perfumes and other merchandise. Monday-Wednesday and Friday 10 am-7 pm, Thursday until 8 pm, Saturday 10 am-6 pm. 754 5th Ave. (at 58th Street), phone 212-753-7300.
Henri Bendel , an exclusive 5th Avenue storefront, is actually a series of 1920s-style boutiques filled with an exceptional selection of Bendel's famous handmade shoes, jewelry and women's clothing. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm (Thursday till 8 pm), Sunday noon-6 pm. 712 5th Ave., phone 212-247-1100.
Saks Fifth Avenue is a legend in New York for its service and style; it specializes in upscale clothing for men and women. Monday-Wednesday and Friday 10 am-7 pm, Thursday till 8 pm, Saturday till 6:30 pm and Sunday noon-6 pm. 611 5th Ave., phone 212-753-4000.
Bloomingdale's has a devoted clientele. Let one of the unemployed actors spray a little perfume on your wrist before you ascend the floors to discover the hottest new designs in clothes, shoes and jewelry. Bloomie's also has a fine reputation for household goods, linens and gourmet foods. Restaurants include an espresso bar, Le Train Bleu, 59 Cafe, Showtime Cafe and 40 Carrots. Theater reservations and personal shopping services available. Monday-Friday 10 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 59th Street and Lexington Avenue, phone 212-355-5900.
Macy's at Herald Square is the largest department store in the world -- it covers an entire city block. Ten floors of clothing, shoes, jewelry and perfumes, all at standard prices. The household department offers good buys and a great selection. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 151 W. 34th St., phone 212-695-4400.
Barneys New York . Expensive designer clothing favored by young New York professionals is showcased with creativity and style; the selection of men's clothing is arguably the best in the entire city. Their original 17th Street location closed, but you can find another Barneys at 660 Madison Ave. (at 61st Street): Open Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm, phone 212-826-8900. Still another is at 2 World Financial Center: Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 11 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm, phone 212-945-1600.
JEWELRY STORES
Tiffany & Co . No trip to New York is complete without a visit to this legendary jeweler. A sparkling array of gorgeous gems and a magnificent collection of china and silver. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday till 7 pm. 5th Avenue at 57th Street, phone 212-755-8000.
Harry Winston . Expensive jewels in beautiful designs, displayed with understated elegance. Monday-Friday 10 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm. 718 5th Ave., phone 212-245-2000.
International Jewelers Exchange
. A great place to find discount jewelry, in the heart of the Diamond District. More than 80 independent jewelers sell their creations at widely varying prices. Expect to bargain. Monday-Friday 10 am-4 pm and Saturday by appointment. Closed Sundays. 578 5th Ave. (at 47th Street), phone 212-382-2270.
BOOKSTORES
Barnes & Noble . The ambience is a little chilly, but you'll find an up-to-date, comprehensive literature section and a vast selection of used books, student texts and children's books. The book annex across the street from the original store at 5th Avenue and 18th Street has bargains. Others throughout the metropolitan area, and most stay open until 10 pm. Phone 212-807-0099.
J. N. Bartfield Galleries and Books
. Great store for a book lover's search for first editions and antique books. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm (or later by appointment). 30 W. 57th St., 3rd Floor, phone 212-245-8890.
Strand Book Store . Miles of new and used books at reasonable prices; the smart staff will help you navigate the aisles. Browse through the room of rare first editions. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-10:30 pm. 828 Broadway (at 12th Street), phone 212-473-1452, and also in the Financial District at 95 Fulton St., open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-8 pm, phone 212-732-6070.
Three Lives . They love books at Three Lives. And they love people. The people who work there are helpful and friendly. It's a general bookstore but mostly stocks literary fiction, some nonfiction and poetry. Also cookbooks and gardening books. Monday and Tuesday 1-8 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 1-7 pm. Most major credit cards. 154 W. 10th St., phone 212-741-2069.
Rizzoli . Wood-paneled, quiet bookstore with an outstanding international book selection in all categories, including design, art, literature, music and travel. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 31 W. 57th St., phone 212-759-2424. Another location in SoHo at 454 W. Broadway, phone 212-674-1616, open Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-8 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm.
A Different Light Bookstore and Cafe . Serves as the main source in the city for gay titles. Books by women are less well represented. Free readings, art openings and occasional film screenings. A good place to pick up newspapers and scan the bulletin board for what's going on in the lesbian and gay community. Daily 10 am-midnight. 151 W. 19th St. (between 6th and 7th Avenues), phone 212-989-4850.
DISCOUNT STORES
At the Century 21 department store, all clothes are marked 25%-75% off retail. A huge selection of designer brands at ridiculously low prices. Expect to encounter crowds of strategic bargain hunters. Hours of operation are roughly Monday-Saturday till about 7 pm, but they constantly change, so it's best to call first. Take the N or R train to Cortlandt Street or the A or C train to Broadway-Nassau, or the E train to the World Trade Center. Opposite the World Trade Center, 22 Cortland St., phone 212-227-9092.
Syms . In the Financial District, designer clothes at a discount. Men get the best deal there, with big-name designer suits, coats and sweaters. Monday-Wednesday 9 am-6:30 pm, Thursday and Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm, Sunday noon-5:30 pm. Take the 4 or 5 train to Wall Street, 1 or 9 to Rector Street or N or R trains to Rector Street. 42 Trinity Place near Rector, phone 212-797-1199.
Daffy's . Cheap clothing as well as more pricey items, often marked-down items by lesser-known European designers. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm. 111 5th Ave. at 18th Street (phone 212-529-4477) and other locations, including 335 Madison at 44th Street (Monday-Friday 8 am-8 pm and Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm), phone 212-557-4422.
MALLS
Manhattan Mall is one of the few malls in New York City. Unlike the horizontal stretches of suburban malls, this one's vertical: nine floors with 80 stores, including such names as Ann Taylor, Stern's and The Limited. Food court and Visitor's Information Center. Hours subject to change: Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Avenue of the Americas (6th Avenue) and 33rd Street, phone 212-465-0500.
Newport Center Mall . You might be surprised that we'd list a mall in Jersey City, New Jersey, but it's just a hop, skip and a jump from Manhattan. It's easy to get there on the PATH train, and there's no tax on clothing items. Multiplex movie theater and food court. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. PATH train to Newport/Pavonia station. Phone 201-626-2025.
MARKETS
GreenMarket/Farmers Market . This traditional open-air farmers market where you can buy everything from goat cheese to freshly baked breads is a welcome oasis in the city. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 8 am-6 pm. Union Square (Broadway and 17th Street), phone 212-477-3220. There's another one at the World Trade Center on Thursdays (starting in June, on Tuesdays as well). 8 am-5 pm.
The Annex
. New Yorkers and European visitors in the know flock to this place on weekends to enjoy the two outdoor markets set up in parking lots: an antique market with a US$1 admission charge, and an adjacent free flea market where you can find furniture, art, toys, jewelry, silver and other collectibles. Saturday and Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 6th Avenue and 26th Street, phone 212-243-5343.
UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL
Steuben . Principal outlet for the Corning Glass Center in upstate New York. Amazing glass sculpture, vases, bowls and drinking glasses. Even if you're not looking to buy, take time to walk around this store. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6, Thursday till 7 pm. 717 5th Ave. (at 56th Street), phone 212-752-1441.
Zabar's . This is New York's super deli, where you can buy and sample everything from caviar to smoked fish to dozens of imported cheeses. Kitchenware upstairs. Monday-Friday 8 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-8 pm, Sunday 9 am-6 pm. 2245 Broadway (at 80th Street), phone 212-787-2000.
Hammacher Schlemme r. This store answers the question: What do you buy for the person who has everything? On sale are a real Wurlitzer jukebox, a motorized car for kids (at US$7,000) and a 12-foot paintable tepee. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 147 E. 57th St., phone 212-421-9000.
F.A.O. Schwarz
. The ultimate toy store. Adults come without the kids to see the giant stuffed animals and animated displays. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 767 5th Ave. (between 58th and 59th Streets), phone 212-644-9400.
The city that never sleeps hums to the trendy, daring and fickle club scene. Topflight jazz, reggae, salsa and blues clubs, friendly Irish pubs and neighborhood bars stay open and lively as late as 4 am.
COMEDY CLUBS
Comic Strip Live . Very small, popular stand-up comedy club. Seinfeld got his start there. Shows Sunday at 8 pm, Monday-Thursday at 8:30 pm; Friday at 8:30 pm and 10:30 pm; Saturday 8 pm, 10:15 pm and 12:30 am. Sunday-Thursday US$8 cover and US$9 drink minimum, Friday and Saturday US$12 cover and US$9 drink minimum. Most major credit cards. 1568 2nd Ave. (between 81st and 82nd Streets), phone 212-861-9386.
Dangerfield's . The always hilarious, sometimes financially troubled Rodney Dangerfield runs this club. One show a night Sunday-Thursday 8:45 pm-12:30 am. Shows Friday at 9 pm and 11 pm; Saturday at 8 pm, 10:30 pm and 12:30 am. US$15 cover on weekends (up to US$20 Saturday), US$12.50 cover Sunday-Thursday, no minimum. Most major credit cards. 1118 1st Ave. (between 61st and 62nd), phone 212-593-1650.
Stand-Up New York . A comedy club with some of the best acts in New York and the occasional guest star. Produced by American Comedy Institute. Political comedy on Monday. Full bar. Sunday-Thursday 8:45 pm; Friday 9 pm and 11:30 pm; Saturday 7:30 pm, 9:30 pm and 11:30 pm. Sunday-Thursday US$7 cover and two-drink minimum; Friday and Saturday US$12 cover (US$10 for second set) and two-drink minimum. Most major credit cards. 236 W. 78th St. (between Broadway and Amsterdam), phone 212-247-5555.
Caroline's Comedy Club . Showcase for up-and-coming comedians. Show times and admission charges vary. US$12-$25 cover and two-drink minimum. Most major credit cards. 1626 Broadway (between 49th and 50th Streets), phone 212-757-4100.
LIVE MUSIC
The Bitter End . A Greenwich Village institution with offerings of live blues, folk and jazz. Full bar. Cover US$5-$10. Thursday-Saturday 7:30 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday till 4 am. Most major credit cards. 147 Bleecker St., phone 212-673-7030.
The Blue Note
. Another institution, this one featuring top jazz performers from all over the country. Check out the Sunday jazz brunch. All-Star Session every Monday features wonderful jams. Sets begin at 9 and 11:30 pm. Cover varies depending on the performer: approximately US$10-$50. 131 W. 3rd St. (at 6th Avenue), phone 212-475-8592.
CBGB . Raucous club where the music is loud and bands seldom play beyond their three-chord musical range. Good for alternative bands who are looking to make some headway in the music scene -- it happened here for the Talking Heads, the Ramones and Blondie. Opens weeknights at 7 pm, weekends at 8 pm. Closes 2 or 3 am. Cover US$5-$12. No credit cards. 315 Bowery, ph